Arkatena is a traditional Cypriot bread crafted from humble chickpeas. Renowned in the villages of Omodos and Koilani, this bread has been listed in the National List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO.

It is said that arkatena production began around 1860 in Omodos. A woman named Hadjistasou, who had married a local man and settled there, introduced the method of making arkatena. Originally from Smyrna, Hadjistasou brought the secret of arkatena to Cyprus.

Arkatena rusks are unique artisanal products crafted using a special yeast called “arkatis”. This yeast is derived from the foam produced during the fermentation of chickpeas. The name “arkatis” likely originates from the Greek word “ergatis”, meaning “laborer”, referring to the time-consuming overnight process required to make this particular yeast.

The lengthy process of making arkatena begins in the morning by placing ground chickpeas and ginger in boiling water. As the day progresses, a foam forms on the surface, which is carefully collected overnight.

This foam must be kept in a warm environment, likely explaining why traditionally arkatena rusks were produced primarily around Dekapentavgoustos (August 15th), commemorating the Dormition of the Virgin Mary.

This foam is mixed with flour and spices like mastic, mechlepi (mahleb), and nutmeg in a wooden kneading trough (skafi) to create a dough. The resulting dough is shaped into “koumoulies” It is also called Daktilia (Fingers) because the loaves are long and slashed on topped, resembling fat fingers. or bagels and baked. Arkatena can be enjoyed fresh and soft as “poxamathkies” or “twice-baked” into crispy rusks known as “xerathkiasta”.

Arkatis yeast makers were highly secretive about their craft, convinced that sharing their methods would weaken the yeast’s ability to rise. Beyond the general secrecy, specific rituals such as grinding chickpeas counterclockwise and preparing the yeast at midnight suggest a belief on magical elements to guarantee successful yeast production.

A visit to Omodos and Koilani wouldn’t be complete without indulging in this traditional culinary treasure. Its irresistible flavor will leave you wanting more.

Embark on the Bread for the Soul route to uncover hidden bread treasures and the captivating tales intertwined with them.